If I had to pick a Christmas Market that was the most magical, dream-like, and just simply a winter fairytale setting, it would definitely be the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market, located in the Black Forest. I know what you’re thinking, “Of course she thinks it’s magical, she’s coming from Hawaii, so anyplace that is blanketed in snow is a winter wonderland!” No dear reader, I’ve been in snow many times. But this, this was unlike any other Christmas market that I visited, so unique, and one that I highly recommend you visit at least once in your lifetime.
If there’s ever a place that truly captures the spirit of Christmas, it’s the Ravenna Gorge Christmas market. Nestled under a colossal stone viaduct in the black forest, this market feels like stepping into a winter Fairytale. One of the key factors that sets the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market apart from the other holiday events, is its stunning location. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the Ravenna Gorge and the towering 131 foot tall (40 meters) Hollental Railway Viaduct. The market offers visitors a truly unforgettable experience. It’s especially breathtaking when the regional train drives over the bridge on its way to Freiberg or Hinterzarten. By day, It’s beautiful, charming, and full of festive cheer, but when the night falls, that’s when the real magic happens.
The viaduct lighting is one of those experiences that feel straight out of a movie. It’s not just the lights that are stunning, it’s the anticipation that builds as everyone waits for the train. The viaduct arches are illuminated and the color shifts from green, to blue, to pink and red, painting the viaduct in a spectrum of winter hues. The illuminated arches cast their glow onto the crowd below. Everyone is in a festive mood, but there’s a bit of suspense in the air, as everyone waits for the train to pass over on the viaduct. Yes, you heard right, the viaduct has a train track that is still working and trains still cross over it! I stood there, camera ready and waiting, but I never got the shot. Each time I gave up and thought the trains were done passing for the night, I’d put my camera away, and then a minute later, it passed over us. Ugh, the disappointment! But you know what, I believe that no picture would do it justice. No camera could capture the thrill of the train rumbling overhead, the smell of bonfires, the scent of pine, the delicious aroma of Christmas goodies filling the air, the music, and the lighted arches of the viaduct illuminating the entire market in the middle of a fairytale like forest. I felt timeless in that magical moment. Me, an island girl, standing in the middle of the Black Forest, in Germany, in the snow, enjoying myself at this most wonderful and unique Christmas market.
The (hilarious) Gluhwein Experience
Now, you can’t go to a German Christmas market without hearing about the wonders of Gluhwein, that warm, spiced holiday drink served in festive mugs. I mean, I absolutely loved my mulled wine (the British equivalent to Gluhwein) experience in London. I loved it so much that I bought a whole bunch of those mulled wine spice packets to replicate my London escapade back home in Hawaii. But, that’s a whole other blog for another day. Now back to the gluhwein. This particular version even had a twist: a sugar cube soaked in rum and set aflame, melting into the wine for extra sweetness. It looked exciting, smelled promising…but taste-wise? Let’s just say it was not quite the winter warmer we’d hoped for.
Imagine a hot, spicy glass of red wine, doused with some sort of liquor, that went heavy on the cloves, light on the sugar, and missed the mark entirely on “delicious.” We were willing to try it and take a chance (hey, anything that looks like a flaming drink deserves a second sip), and besides, we needed it for the ultimate Instagram story. But, the melted sugar cube was sadly no match for the mulled bitterness of this concoction. We ended up clutching it mostly for warmth – sometimes, even “holiday spirit” just means warming your hands. We wanted to dispose of it discreetly, but we were surrounded by white snow everywhere and so throwing it onto the ground was not an option. It seemed everyone was drinking it and enjoying it with gusto. Could you imagine if we threw it on the ground, leaving the pristine white snow with a giant blood colored stain? Who knows what would’ve happened – but we weren’t ready to chance it and nor did we want to end up on Santa’s Naughty List. So, eventually, we snuck behind a food stall and discreetly chucked it onto some logs.
Potato Latkes to the Rescue
The snacks saved the day though, starting with the golden, crispy potato latkes. They were everything we needed: hot, crunchy, and packed with enough flavor to make us almost forget the gluhwein disappointment. If I’m being honest, they were essentially oversized, deep-fried hash browns –but that didn’t stop us from devouring every bit of it. Nothing fights off the chill quite like hot, carb-loaded comfort food.
There was also a hearty selection of local treats like bratwursts and flammkuchen, which is a must-have flatbread with savory toppings and something creamy resembling creme fraiche. Between bites, we warmed up by the fire pits scattered around the market, although those could only do so much to fight off the chill of the Black Forest.
The Cold (and the Countdown to the Warm Shuttle Bus)
Now, let me tell you, we dressed for cold weather–but Ravenna Gorge in December is on a whole other level. After three hours of exploring, sampling, and snapping countless pictures, we started to feel the cold seep in. And by seep in, I mean flood straight up through the soles of our boots. If we stayed much longer, I would’ve sworn we were merging into icicles.
So, as much as we hated to leave the magical forest lights and wooden huts, we finally headed back to the shuttle bus.
Plan Your Visit: The Essentials
If this magical adventure sounds like your ideal Christmas escape, here are the details for the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market 2024:
Dates:
Fridays through Sundays, from November 22 to December 15, 2024
Times:
Fridays: 3 PM to 9 PM
Saturdays: 2PM to 9 PM
Sundays: 2 PM to 8 PM
Tickets:
Timed entry tickets must be reserved in advance (they sell out quickly!), and include the shuttle bus from Hinterzarten station, or for those staying in Freiburg, there’s a shuttle from the bus station across the street from this cozy hotel. We stayed at the Novotel Freiburg am Konzerthaus Hotel and it was excellent. The rooms were huge, the bed was heavenly, and it’s conveniently located from everything.
Tips for Making the Most of Your Visit:
-Dress Like You’re Entering the Arctic: Multiple layers, thick socks, and maybe even hand warmers. This market is in the Black Forest, in the middle of nowhere and when the sun goes down, so does the temperature. A good winter coat and a fleece lined beanie to keep you warm. Good insulated shoes like these to keep your toes from turning into popsicles. Yes, I may be exaggerating a little, but I am from Hawaii and I was freezing 🥶 that night. Click here for my Cold Winter Essentials Recommendations.
-Bring Cash: Many vendors only accept cash, so come prepared if you’re planning to shop for gifts or snacks. I wouldn’t want you to miss out on buying all the adorable handmade crafts because you didn’t have cash on hand. Click here for my recommended debit card for traveling. It’s excellent for accessing cash from an ATM while traveling as it doesn’t charge ATM fees or Foreign Transaction Fees.
Stay for the Lights: If you can, arrive before sunset. The magic kicks up a notch when the lights come on against the darkening sky. I took so many photos near the river at dusk as the sun was setting. Not gonna lie, it totally looked like a scene from The Lion The Witch and The Wardrobe. I wouldn’t have been surprised at all if I had heard a flute playing and then Mr. Tumnus and Lucy appeared. It totally reminded me of the snowy woods that Lucy first stumbled upon after entering the wardrobe. Close your eyes and picture it–that is what the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market looks like, only there’s lots of lights, music, and the air is filled with delicious aromas.
Prepare for a Hit or Miss Gluhwein Adventure: Maybe it’s an acquired taste – or maybe we just got the batch with an extra holiday bite! Nevertheless, you should try it. If it turns out to be as unpalatable as it was for me, at least you can get that perfect pic for your Instagram!
Final Thoughts: A Magical Christmas Market Adventure
Despite the cold (and our lukewarm feelings about the Gluhwein), the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market is worth every shiver. From the Narnia-like riverside forest, to the rustic stalls, it’s a holiday memory we’ll cherish and reminisce about for a long time. If you get the chance to visit, bundle up, bring your camera (and a dose of patience), and prepare for a fairytale setting that will leave you enchanted (and maybe a little frozen).
